In the movies, traveling into a warzone usually involves driving down bomb-cratered roads or swooping in via helicopter. To enter the thick of Russia’s war with Ukraine, though, you can just buy a ticket for the Lviv-Kyiv Express. Despite the fighting nationwide, the regular train connecting Lviv in the west to Kyiv further east is still running daily. The only difference is that while normally the train is busy both ways, today only the westbound train is packed, taking Ukrainians fleeing the conflict towards the Polish border. The eastbound back to Kyiv, meanwhile, is almost deserted.